Getting the lighting and angles right for close-up penetration shots is one of the most challenging parts of making porn – pro or amateur. We’ve devised a way to get a really, really close-up view of the in-and-out with a USB dildo-cam. It’s like having your face right up in the action. Satiate your fascination with penetration.
All you need for this project is a small USB webcam, a sturdy dildo with large balls, some silicone caulk, and a sharp utility knife.
We used a camera with LEDs built into it, for illuminating those places where the sun don’t shine. An adjustable lens is nice as well; you want to be able to capture all the up-close details in focus.
The dildo’s balls need to be big enough to contain the body of the camera, or at least its height and width. It’s OK if some of the camera sticks out, as long as it’s secure.
We used a jelly rubber dildo, but we recommend regular rubber, which is firmer and easier to work with. Silicone and jelly can split easily when cut, while cyberskin is too soft and also tears.
Before beginning this project, install any software and drivers needed for your webcam and give it a test drive. This way you can address any technical issues with the cam before you get it inserted in the dildo.
To prepare the webcam, remove any attached mounting hardware. In this case it was a swiveling clip. Make any other modifications to the case necessary to fit it into the dildo, if you can do so without destroying the camera itself. Our webcam had a metal post that was part of the case, but as you will see in a later step, we decided to work around it rather than sawing it off.
Compare the size of the cam to the size of the balls to figure out the approximate positioning you want and where to cut the hole. The walls of the hole need to be thick enough on all sides that they will support the cam and the rubber won’t get torn as you insert the device.
Excise the area where the cam will be situated. It’s better to make the hole slightly small and carve more from the sides than to make it too large. You want the cam to fit snugly.
After making the initial cuts, you will need to use a longer blade to slice all the way through the balls. The hole goes all the way through so the USB cable can exit from the back of the dildo. We saved the extracted plug and later used parts of it to fill in the back of the cavity. If your hole ends up being too large, you can also use slices of the excess rubber as shims to fill in gaps around the camera.
With our webcam, the ball pivot from the swivel clip was part of the housing, so we made a vertical hole for it through the underside of the balls. When inserted through this hole, the pivot helped hold the cam in place, and the metal ball sticking out from the end created a nice “pierced” scrotum effect.
We inserted the cam from the back of the dildo, so the USB cable would be coming out of the backside of the balls. The cam had to be inserted carefully to avoid splitting the jelly rubber.
A portion of the plug extracted from the hole was used to fill in the back, covering the rear of the cam. The cable is resting in a small notch carved out for it. Depending on the positioning of your cam’s cable, you may need to wrap it around the case or cut a groove in one of the walls to accommodate it.
The cam is pushed all the way to the front of the opening and the lens protrudes slightly. To set the angle and positioning of the cam, turn it on and check the image while making adjustments. You want it aimed up slightly toward the shaft, where the action will be happening. It also needs to be lined up with the shaft, so you’re getting a square shot and the frame doesn't go too far off to one side. Our cam had a photosensitive switch on the top that activated the LEDs in low-light conditions. Since we wanted them on when the cam was in use, we positioned the cam so that the sensor was covered, blocking out light.
Use the caulk as adhesive to secure the plug in the back of the hole, and use it to fill in any gaps around the cam in the front and back. The caulk should overlap slightly over the edges of the cam. Remove any excess and clear it away from the LEDs as much as possible. We used a caulk that becomes transparent when dry, so a little bit on the LEDs wouldn’t obscure the lights too much. Take care not to get any on the cam lens. Our cam had a small microphone hole on the front that also needed to remain clear.
The caulk may take a couple of days to harden completely because of the amount used. After the silicone has cured, the cam is ready to plug and play. Get ready for your close-up!
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